Not the least, however, of the attractions of the Three Cranes, was the

hostess herself
Not the least, however, of the attractions of the Three Cranes, was the
hostess herself. A lively little brunette was Madame Bonaventure, still
young, or, at all events, very far from being old; with extremely fine
teeth, which she was fond of displaying, and a remarkably neat ancle,
which she felt no inclination to hide beneath the sweep of her round
circling farthingale. Her figure was quite that of a miniature Venus;
and as, like most of her country-women, she understood the art of dress
to admiration, she set off her person to the best advantage; always
attiring herself in a style, and in colours, that suited her, and never
indulging in an unwarrantable extravagance of ruff, or absurd and
unbecoming length of peaked boddice. As to the stuffs she wore, they
were certainly above her station, for no Court dame could boast of
richer silks than those in which the pretty Dameris appeared on fete
days; and this was accounted for by reason that the good skipper seldom
returned from a trip to France without bringing his wife a piece of
silk, brocade, or velvet from Lyons; or some little matter from Paris,
such as a ruff, cuff, partlet, bandlet, or fillet. Thus the last French
mode might be seen at the Three Crowns, displayed by the hostess, as
well as the last French _entremet_ at its table; since, among other
important accessories to the well-doing of the house, Madame Bonaventure
kept a _chef de cuisine_--one of her compatriots--of such superlative
skill, that in later times he must infallibly have been distinguished as
a _cordon bleu_.